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→ Meju (Long Island City), 5-28 49th Ave., Tock It may be hard to find, but Meju won’t stay hidden for long. On a recent visit, the final course was like a dream of a typical Korean home-cooked meal - a simple bowl of steamed white rice, Berkshire pork belly bathing in a 10-month-aged kimchi sauce, a sunny-side-up egg, and a plate of gim (short seaweed sheets). In service to the science at work, plates are refreshingly modest, not delicate or tweezered. Other marvels of chemistry dazzle throughout the $185 tasting menu. After being bottled up for years, all of his jangs (fermented sauces) are ready for their close up - including the 128-year-old ganjang (soy sauce), a salty, layered, dark hole of a condiment which the chef brushes onto black throat sea perch and beef tenderloin fritters. Kim, who earned a Michelin star at Danji and also owns Little Banchan Shop, is a master of fermentation. 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